November 25, 2014
				
										How to maintain a healthy lawn in seven simple steps
 
	
		
 
More information on healthy lawns can be found online at:
Onatrio Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs
www.omafra.gov.on.ca
	If your schedule gets in the way, consider either one-time services or a seasonal program from one of Landscape Ontario's lawn care members. Click here to find companies in your area.
Step 1: aerating and thatch control
- Aerate in the spring and fall before top dressing or fertilizing.
 - Aerators can be rented or lawn care companies can provide the service.
 - Alleviates compacted soil and allows water to penetrate deeper, producing deeper roots.
 - Creates space in soil for penetration of air, water and nutrients.
 - Physically breaks up thatch.
 - A healthy lawn has 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thatch - more than 2.5 cm is too much.
 - Unhealthy amounts of thatch prevent water and nutrients from reaching roots.
 - Thatch can harbour insects and diseases.
 - Use a de-thatching machine or hire a lawn care company.
 
- Grass grows best in a moist, fertile soil that is not waterlogged.
 - Sandy soil and heavy clay both need humus to improve the texture.
 - A deep dense root system is most important to support top growth in grass.
 - A minimum of 4 in. (10 cm) of soil is needed.
 - More soil = deeper roots.
 - Soil samples can be sent for analysis. The results will include levels of phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime.
 - pH levels are the measurement of acid and alkaline level. The optimum level is between 6.0 and 7.0. Test can be done by Agri-Food Laboratories, Imperial Rd. Guelph, 1-800-265-7175, www.agtest.com
 - Top dress lawn with good quality top soil (1/4 to 1/2 inch), consisting of loam, peat moss and compost, to improve soil conditions.
 - Can be combined with overseeding.
	
 
- Top-dressing and overseeding are ideal opportunities to introduce drought-resistant grass mixes.
 - Best time is early fall, but can be done in spring if there is winter damage.
 - Red fescue tolerates shade and drought conditions, requires low-fertility, rows well in the sun, has very fine leaves and spreads by runners.
 - Perennial rye grass is drought tolerant, prefers full sun, but tolerates shade.
 - Many perennial rye grasses contain levels of endophytic fungus, which help the roots take up water and nutrients. Hairy chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs and sod webworms don't like the taste.
 - Perennial rye grass retains its green colour very well during mid-summer heat stress.
 
- Mow high: 6 to 8 cm (approx 3 in.).
 - Keep mower blades sharp.
 - Mow frequently - cut no more than 1/3 of shoot length.
 - Leave clippings on the lawn to provide a natural source of nitrogen.
	
 
- Very important to grass health.
 - Provides nutrients to out grow weeds.
 - Use a slow release type of fertilizer, and follow instructions.
 - Use a spreader for even application.
 - Consider using organic fertilizers.
 - Apply a fertilizer specifically formulated for turfgrass. An established lawn with a good root system can seek out phosphorous already in the soil. The Lawn Care Sector Group of Landscape Ontario recommends using a phosphorus-free fertilizer on established turf.
 - Nitrogen needs to be applied each year.
 - Phosphorus and potassium are stable in soil.
 - Late fall fertilization is best to increase fall and spring root growth and also results in an early spring green up.
 - Promotes a thicker lawn.
 - Timing is critical - in the fall, the turf has stopped growing above the soil, but the roots are still active.
 - Follow-up with late May, early June fertilization (consider corn gluten meal and deal with crabgrass at the same time).
 
- Integrated Pest Management is as good as conventional pest management.
 - Pull any broadleaf weeds by hand.
 - Annual weeds: prevent flowering by mowing and/or hand pulling.
 - Grass weeds: apply a pre-emergent (prevents germination) treatment. Try corn gluten meal Turf Maize.
 - Perennial rye grass mix will minimize chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs and sod webworms.
 - Apply nematode spray for grubs.
	
 
- Let a healthy lawn go dormant during extended dry periods. It can survive four to six weeks without adequate water.
 - Water only during an extreme drought or if lawn is under stress or renovation to begin with. If your lawn is dormant:
	
- Check regularly for insect pests
 - Keep traffic off
 - Stop mowing
 - Do not fertilize
 
- Water deeply: 2.5 cm (one inch).
 - Water infrequently: Less than once a week.
 - Water before 10:00 a.m. to avoid evaporation and for best health.
 - Follow any regional watering restrictions.
 
 
| April | Clean-up, rake, investigate winter damage | 
| May | Aerate if needed Top-dress and overseed if needed Pull dandelions and other weeds Apply corn gluten meal Pre-emergent for crab grass Fertilizer Wait 30 days if overseeding  | 
		
| June | Pull dandelions and other weeds Monitor grubs  | 
		
| July | Monitor grubs Monitor chinch bugs  | 
		
| August | Apply nematodes if necessary for grubs Late in the month, overseed with drought resistant grass — perennial rye grass or red fescue  | 
		
| September | Overseed early in the month Monitor and pull weeds  | 
		
| October | Buy fertilizer | 
| November | Apply late season fertilizer | 
More information on healthy lawns can be found online at:
Onatrio Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs
www.omafra.gov.on.ca
Guelph Turfgrass Institute
www.uoguelph.ca/GTI
This document is a summary of a presentation made by the Kitchener Master Gardeners in spring 2008 as part of the Region of Waterloo's Naturescaping Seminars.